In the southernmost part of Jordan lies a place that feels more like another planet than Earth. Welcome to Wadi Rum, where ancient Bedouin traditions blend with landscapes so otherworldly they’re called “Mars on Earth.” Let me take you through my journey in this remarkable desert.
Meeting Our Bedouin Guide
“Welcome to Wadi Rum! How are you?” Salem greets us with a warmth that instantly makes us feel at home. Our guide isn’t just any tour operator – he’s a true Bedouin who grew up in these very deserts. “I grew up in Wadi Rum desert in the Bedouin tent,” he tells us. “I have 13 brothers and sisters!”
| Experience | Authenticity Factor |
|---|---|
| Local Guide | Born and raised Bedouin |
| Accommodation | Traditional desert camp |
| Transport | 4×4 desert vehicles |
| Food | Traditional Bedouin cuisine |
Desert Life and Ancient Wisdom
Perhaps the most fascinating aspects of Wadi Rum are its survival traditions. Salem shares an incredible insight about desert life: “I’ve never heard somebody die from snake or scorpion bite in desert.” He explains their traditional immunization method:
“When I was a child around a year old, my mom caught the Scorpions, barbecued it in the fire, then ground it to make it soft & mixed it with oil. Then she used to put it all over my body & put little bit in my tongue or mouth to protect me from other scorpions.”
Traditional Bedouin Hospitality
The Bedouin commitment to hospitality runs deep. As Salem explains, “You’re my guest! I don’t ask for money as money is not everything in life. In life your heart should be clean.” This philosophy shapes every aspect of the desert experience.
Desert Cuisine: A Underground Tradition
One of the most unique experiences is the traditional Bedouin cooking method. Our food is prepared in an underground pit:
“We make a hole inside and we will be preparing fire, and when the fire becomes a little low, we put the food inside and we leave it for about 2-3 hours,” Salem explains. The result is incredibly tender meat and vegetables infused with desert flavors.
Traditional Dishes
| Dish | Description | Cooking Method |
|---|---|---|
| Galai | Vegetarian dish with tomatoes and spices | Open fire |
| Underground Chicken | Slow-cooked meat | Earth oven |
| Bedouin Tea | With fresh mint | Fire-brewed |
Modern Life vs. Bedouin Traditions
When asked about choosing between modern city life and traditional Bedouin ways, Salem provides a thoughtful perspective: “Some Bedouin people tried to do it but they returned back to this lifestyle… People go and come back very fast. Once a Bedouin always a Bedouin.”
Desert Adventures
The landscape offers numerous activities:
- Sand boarding down massive dunes
- Rock climbing in ancient canyons
- Sunset watching from strategic points
- Star gazing in perfect darkness
Practical Tips for Visitors
Salem’s advice for desert survival:
- Respect traditional knowledge
- Stay with experienced guides
- Trust Bedouin hospitality
- Embrace the disconnect
- Prepare for temperature extremes
Night in the Desert
The camp experience is surprisingly comfortable:
- Solar-powered amenities
- Clean facilities
- Traditional sleeping arrangements
- Communal dining areas
- Evening entertainment
Conservation and Tourism
Salem shares his concerns about preserving Bedouin culture while embracing tourism: “It’s written in Quran! Its forbidden to scam people. It’s very shameful. Bedouin people can never do that.”
The Desert’s Lessons
Survival Skills
The Bedouins have developed remarkable solutions for desert challenges:
- Natural immunization against scorpion stings
- Herbal remedies from mountain plants
- Traditional navigation methods
- Water conservation techniques
Weather and Timing
| Season | Temperature | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Summer | 40-45°C | Early morning activities |
| Winter | Cool nights | All-day exploration |
| Spring/Fall | Moderate | Ideal visiting time |
Final Thoughts
Wadi Rum isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that changes how you view the world. As Salem says, “Sometimes when I go to city I get headache because I’m not used to the environment. I am used to this weather… when later everyone will sleep, you’ll hear nothing. Its very quiet.”
This silence, this connection to ancient ways, and this otherworldly landscape combine to create something truly unique. Whether you’re watching the sunset paint the rocks in shades of red, sharing tea with Bedouin hosts, or gazing at stars in the crystal-clear desert night, Wadi Rum offers experiences that can’t be found anywhere else on Earth – or Mars.
Travel Tips:
- Book with reputable companies like Rum Stars Camp
- Plan for at least one overnight stay
- Respect Bedouin customs and traditions
- Disconnect from technology
- Trust in local knowledge
(Part 2)
